New York ice
In Brooklyn and Manhattan, tasty soupçons of the mezzogiorno.
Baccalà Assailed
The beast — still in its vacuum wrapping — sprang back, smelling like the family dog.
Totally al fresco
Outside dining can be in a square, overlooking the sea, or in a garden or forest.
Touched By God
Does Italy’s capacity to coax exceptional wine from indigenous grapes warrant envy from a merchant in Bordeaux, the Promised Land of the wine world? Yes.
All Corked Up
Is the wine clear? Breathe deeply through your nose: Can you smell the fruit?
Milan ethnic
The leitmotif of Milan's ethnic restaurants is to outdo Italian food to conquer skeptics.
The perfect cheese
If you don’t love Parmigiano, some insist, you might as well give up.
Sunny and Red
If wine isn’t somewhere near 18 degrees C, you're within your rights to talk back.
Wild at Heart
I've had very limited success tracking down wild asparagus.
B’ For Barbera
Barbera is now flourishing all over the world, grown by nostalgic Italians.
Liquid Foreplay
Most of the best aperitivi come from northwest Italy, including Campari and Cinzano.