April 27, 2026 | Rome, Italy
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Table

Valentine’s Day 1999. But before that, a prime minister, a pope, and a dying king.

The taxi driver claimed the panettoni were the brainchild of Paolo Pillitteri, then Milan’s mayor and crony of Bettino Craxi.

Milan Quiz

Arriving in Milan from Paris, our taxi driver had a losing run-in with a panettone.

In Rome, you can get to the masses through mass transit.

Slow Transit

I lived in San Giovanni di Laterano, so I had a jumble of bus numbers: 85, 87, 571, 117, 860. I never played favorites.

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Free Beer

American campuses in Italy face an mini-epidemic of drinking among students. But it’s not a problem their own making.

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House

The Italian popularity of TV's “House, M.D.” — or “Doctor House” — is all about boys and girls thrilled by loners they can’t be.

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No more summit

Surge is the done deal word, and a “cool” one at that, but the one that's left behind is summit.

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Meds

A trip to USA .07 yields awesome med-peddlers and close encounters with the ruling crass.

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Harm & Foul

Executing Saddam Hussein is hardly a triumph of justice or good intentions. It just unfinished business.

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The fix

Both state and church associate destiny with hardship, and hardship with hope.