July 11, 2026 | Rome, Italy
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Travel blues

Knowing I was leaving Italy in two weeks, I began the Sisyphean task of getting Bella her "documents."

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One-way

Good Italian girlfriends are hard to find for an American 'straniera.'

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Young vipers

The sinister rustle in the undergrowth dulls some of the pleasure of the spring ritual of asparagus-picking.

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Animal rules

Many Italian restaurants, cafes, shops, offices, trains, churches and even butchers welcome animals with open arms.