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July 16, 2018 | Rome, Italy
A mix of free beaches and paid bathing establishments.

Ostia, property of Papà

By | 2018-03-21T20:02:33+00:00 August 22nd, 2016|

In the 1970s, the author and his family trekked from Rome to Ostia with food and libations, and strict marching orders from paterfamilias.

I took a final mournful look at the couch, before into turned into a trampoline.

Birthday pillaging

By | 2018-03-21T20:00:33+00:00 May 26th, 2016|

Barbarians at the gate — otherwise known as a birthday sleepover — can drive you to drink, specifically vintage rosé.

Chasing down a fine can be like entering Dante's Inferno.

La multa

By | 2018-03-21T19:49:18+00:00 March 31st, 2016|

Paying parking tickets in Rome is a nightmare in the making, but wine can dull the pain.

The author's classmates tumbling from a classroom window.


By | 2018-03-21T19:48:45+00:00 February 25th, 2016|

If you resist reunions long enough, finally going to one can unleash a tide of memories.

You can't do anything without one, not in Rome.

Dreamhouse blues

By | 2018-03-21T19:47:05+00:00 November 29th, 2015|

Italy is a joy. So is Rome. Just please don't think of buying a home if you value your mental health.

On average, wine lists in the U.S. are at least 50 percent pricier than those in Rome.


By | 2018-03-21T19:46:28+00:00 October 27th, 2015|

Being anointed wine-chooser is an honor, until you're stuck with a list written for billionaires.

A misplaced or misstated word can cost you dearly at customs.

Area B

By | 2018-03-21T19:07:14+00:00 August 28th, 2015|

An Italian traveler recalls a nightmarish trip to Washington that needs strong wine for the telling.

The author and his best friend.

Mezzo Americano

By | 2018-03-21T19:06:49+00:00 July 21st, 2015|

À la "Sliding Doors," seemingly minor decisions, depending on which way you turn, can transform lives.

Not quite Miami Beach.


By | 2018-03-21T19:06:26+00:00 June 22nd, 2015|

In summer 1989, the author and his friends set off for a unique vacation into then-Communist Romania.

Once a little boy, always a little boy.


By | 2018-03-21T19:05:55+00:00 May 20th, 2015|

Once upon a time, "total" parenthood depended on "total motherhood," at least in Italy.