May 20, 2026 | Rome, Italy

Hold the romance

While it's easy to idealize a "nonna" cooking for the kids in a bucolic kitchen, rural realities were different.

Paper and gelato

The joy of Umbria isn't merely art and nature, but craftsmen who make even little things ornate, including paper.

True gifts

For those who can't stand big-store Christmas shopping, try the artisanal alternative — and then make cookies.