Something I have learned to “be on the lookout for,” living here in the countryside of Normandy, France, is the occasion or the experience that makes me feel that I am going back in time. It might be a poster stapled to a telephone pole or barn door that catches my attention as I walk by with my dogs: “le Festival de l’Accordéon” coming up in the nearby town of Moncy. In such a case, I admit I imagine myself surrounded by hundreds of pumping accordions, and I hurry on. Yet, to certain other local events, I am drawn.
Signs for these pounce out from the roadside in bold colors and zigzags posted at regular intervals as I drive into Condé sur Noireau to do my weekly shopping. Le Cirque Zavatta, one of a handful of “cirques tziganes” (“Gypsy” or “Roma” Circuses), is on its way! Its shining red trailers will parade into town hauling lion cages, zebras, a llama, camels, and black horses with flowing manes. The Big Top will rise in the fields abutting the Super U, where the four-legged performers will graze in the grassy verges alongside the supermarket car park. I make a point of going.
Getting the chance to see the last of something turned out to be true, in this case, as lions and other wild animals in circuses were to be banned in France in three or four years. After an afternoon and evening with the Cirque Zavatta I had the sense of being in the midst of this hard-working, traveling circus family, of which the animals were an essential and beloved part.
1. Big Top
The Zavatta heritage is honored by flying the Italian flag alongside the French “Tricolor.”
2. Flags
Pictured on the pick-up door, a portait of founder, Alphonse “Achille” Zavatta (1915 -1993), French clown, artist and circus operator, born in La Goulette, Tunisia. The son of Federico Zavatta, a circus owner from a family of Italian fairground artists.
3. Sleeping Camel
I arrived early and was welcomed by this sleeping Bactrian beauty.
4. Stance
The moment I had hoped for – A “Showman for the Camera” in a playful stance of confidence. How fantastic to be able to say, “My dad is a lion tamer!”
5. Formal Family Portrait
The formality of this “Family Portrait” belies its total spontaneity.
6. Siesta
They gave me a sneak preview of the sleeping lionesses.
7. Tail
He was so relaxed with them, part of the pride.
8. Swipe
Invisible boundary; don’t bite the hand that feeds.
9. Roar
“Up close and personal.” What an indescribable sensation next to her roar.
10. Lion Tamer
In the presence of an entertainer of great courage, charm and kindness. Can we imagine how he and his family will continue when the ban on wild animals in circuses takes effect?
11. Green Pride
The delicacy, balance and interconnectedness between man and beast was stunning, emanating mutual respect …
12. Blue Pride
… communication rather than dominance or bravado.
