True to type, I was a New York City kid, aware of the connections between a carton of milk and the udders of a cow, wine and grapes, but as far as the stages in between, I lacked understanding as well as interest.
The cherry blossoms came out in Central Park each spring and were a source of excitement as well as mild sadness, because I knew they would never turn into my favorite summer fruit. Their petals fell with the rain, and that was it for another year. Before moving to rural France, I am embarrassed to say I was not been aware that an apple, like any fruit, begins as a bud and passes through flowerhood.
Our home in Normandy is a region of orchards. Here one can easily feel one has tumbled into a canvas by the 19th century painter Pisarro, a scene of cows grazing in an orchard beneath a canopy of downy blossoms. Apples here are grown not for eating, but for the production of Calvados, a brandy (which may also contain pears), classified as an “Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée,” meaning that it can only be produced in this areas of North-Western France.
Over the years I have become friends with our neighbor whose family has, for seven generations, produced what is considered by many to be some of the finest Calvedos in the world. Frequently called upon to translate from French into English for visitors who come from around the globe to tour the Cave of “Calvalos Michel Huard,” I have taken photographs and learned in some depth about each step taken to bring this product from orchard to bottle. I have been touched by the intensely personal nature of this family’s craft, and their mission to interfere as little as possible in the organic process: “Que la nature s’exprime.” “Let nature express herself!”
Francoise
Françoise Huard is sixth generation in the family of producers of Calvados, a brandy as emblematic of Normandy as the architecture of the Colombage reflected in her sunglasses.
Bottles for a tasting
Françoise’s father, Michel Huard, began bottling his Calvados in the 1950s, which was a first in the industry. Prior to this, Calvados had only been sold by the barrel.
Japanese importers
Japanese importers interested in introducing Calvados Michel Huard to their country try the drink.
Jean-François
Seventh generation, Jean-François Guillouet-Huard’s name is on every bottle. He speaks poetically of the process of producing Calvados as one that "allows nature to express herself.”
Grazing in the orchard
In early spring their beautiful herd of russet Salers cattle graze in the orchard.
VERGERS PRÉS
Huard is among one of last to use the ancient farming system of “vergers prés” or “orchard pastures,” in which the herd eats the first fall sub-par apples, and benefits the soil by fertilizing it naturally as well as patting down the surface with their hooves, which cuts down on the number of pests that nibble on the tender tree roots.
Massey Ferguson
It is surprising when the smiling face of the company director pops out of the tractor cab. Jean François involvement is hands on in every aspect of production.
THE NOSE
A conversation of an olfactory nature seems to be taking place here.
Chocolat, Chaud, Bois
“Chocolate is what it makes you think of,” Fraçoise explains, “not what it tastes like.”
Each Barrel has a story to tell
Each barrel has a story to tell. Some of the oldest, called “les Tonnes,” were bought by Jean-François’ grandfather and are more than 100 years old.
Barrels
These beauties came from the cognac producing Charente region.
Young apples
Jean-François has fond memories of his grandfather in this orchard. They would crawl around on the grass, the early morning dew staining their trousers. “My grandfather could spend a whole day looking at apples,” he says. More than 30 varieties of apples are needed to make the Calvados.
