October 7, 2024 | Rome, Italy

Bread, bread, and bread

By |2024-08-07T17:58:56+02:00July 27th, 2024|"Suzanne's Taste"|
Bread, food of the gods.

Such a bread craze we’re in! Yeast breads do not have to take all day. The secret of just about any yeast dough is to mix it quickly, let it rise in the refrigerator overnight while you are handling a career, carpooling with six kids, or writing the definitive book on nuclear fission, then let it come to room temperature, form and bake.  In this way, the yeast is slowed down and more flavor develops in the dough, and you’ve spent less than 15 minutes of your valuable time on the project, other than waiting the dough to come to room temperature of course.

Another trick is to use instant, fast-rising yeast and use a little more than recipes call for. There will be no perceptible change in the flavor of the bread, and the rising time will be shortened considerably when there is more lifting power. Cinnamon buns, dinner rolls, breadsticks can all be made on the same day and get to the over in less than 1 ½ hours without the rise in the fridge, but both methods – the slow rise in the fridge and the fast-rising shortcut yeast – work well. Your summer breads are waiting for you in your pantry

 

FRENCH BREAD

1 cup hot milk

2 teaspoons butter

2 teaspoons sugar

1 cup cold water

2 teaspoons instant yeast

4 to 4 ½ cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons salt

1 egg white, beaten

In the bowl of an electric mixer, mix the butter and sugar into the hot milk until butter is melted.  Add the cold water to cool the mixture to lukewarm.  Add the yeast and mix well. Add the flour and salt and mix until smooth and the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl.  You may use another ½ cup of flour if needed. Place dough in an oiled bowl, cover tightly, and let rise an hour or until doubled in bulk. Spray a French bread pan with vegetable spray or grease well with olive oil. Sprinkle a smooth surface with 2 tablespoons flour, and turn dough out on surface, keeping as much air in the dough as possible. Cut dough into two equal pieces and quickly form each one into a long baguette shape to fit pan. Let rise while oven is heating to 500 degrees F. Spray inside of oven quickly with a hand sprayer and place bread on the middle rack. Bake for 10 minutes, then lower heat to 400F/275C degrees. Bake for 20 minutes more or until loaves are golden.

 

A QUICK FOCACCIA OR COUNTRY LOAF

This dough may be stretched into focaccia, placed on a baking sheet to make a country loaf or poured into a seasoned, non-stick skillet to form an attractive round bread.

2 cups lukewarm water

3 teaspoons instant yeast

4 – 4 ½ cups unbleached bread flour

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons salt

In a large mixing bowl, mix the yeast with the water until smooth. Add the flour and salt and mix just until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Scrape the dough down into a ball, cover the bowl and let rise in the refrigerator overnight. Remove the dough to an oiled baking pan and let it come to room temperature or until soft before forming.

The author’s focaccia.

 

FOR FOCACCIA

Brush the dough with olive oil. Push your fingers into the dough vertically and stretch the dough sideways and all over until dough covers the baking pan and has holes over the surface. You may sprinkle coarse salt over the top or any fresh herbs you like, chopped. I use fresh rosemary but have done wonders with black pepper and toasted sage. Heat the oven to 450F/275C and bake the focaccia until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

 

FOR A COUNTRY LOAF THAT LOOKS LIKE A BONE 

Taking care not to deflate the dough, remove it from the bowl and place it on a lightly floured baking sheet, stretching the dough into a long rectangle about 3 inches wide.  Heat oven to 450F/275C and when it is hot, gently slide your hands under the short ends of the rectangle and quickly turn the dough over onto its other side.

Immediately place on the middle rack of oven and bake 30 minutes or until nicely browned.

 

FOR A ROUND LOAF

Taking care not to deflate the dough, pour the dough into a well-seasoned or non-stick, oven-proof oiled skillet, brush with olive oil, and with kitchen scissors, snip little 2-inch cuts in the top of the dough all over the surface so the dough can expand while baking. Heat the oven to 450F/275C, spritz the inside of the oven with a hand sprayer, and place the skillet on the middle rack. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until nicely browned.

Great for sandwiches.

 

WHOLE WHEAT BREAD

This is a great sandwich bread, or with the addition of ½ cup raisins and/or ½ cup chopped nuts, a terrific breakfast bread.

3 teaspoons instant yeast

1 cup lukewarm water

1 cup warm milk

2 tablespoons honey or molasses

3 teaspoons salt

¼ cup melted butter or olive oil

1 ½ cups whole wheat bread flour

2 cups unbleached bread flour

½ cup rye flour

1 tablespoon dark chocolate powder

½ cup bran or ½ cup cracked wheat, soaked for ½ hour in warm water and drained well

½ cup raisins (optional)

½ cup nuts, chopped medium (optional)

In a large bowl, stir the yeast into the water and mix well. Add the rest of the ingredients in order, mixing well. The dough should be moist and shiny. Cover the bowl tightly and let rise for 1 hour or until double the size. Oil an 8-inch loaf pan or 8-inch non-stick oven- proof skillet with olive oil or spray with a non-stick vegetable product, and carefully pour the dough into the pan so it does not deflate. Heat the oven to 450-500F/275C degrees. Open the oven and with a hand sprayer, quickly spray the inside of the oven to create steam. Place the bread pan on the middle rack, lower the heat to 400 and continue to bake for 30-40 minutes or until the top is well-browned. Let the pan cool for a few minutes, then turn the bread onto a wire rack to cool.

About the Author:

Suzanne Dunaway, a longtime major magazine writer and artist, is the author and illustrator of "Rome, At Home, The Spirit of La Cucina Romana in Your Own Kitchen" (Broadway Books) and "No Need To Knead, Handmade Italian Breads in 90 Minutes" (Hyperion). She taught cooking for 15 years privately and at cooking schools in Los Angeles, and now maintains a personal website and a blog. She divides her time between southern France and Italy.