A month ago, when Lent was drawing closer, it was Carnival season. What is Carnival season like in Friuli Venezia Giulia? Just like the Triestine Bora — windy, wild, and sometimes unexpected.
I like that each Carnival is different from the last. To start with, it is tricky to schedule a Carnival with surgical precision, as the dates change according to Martedì Grasso. Perhaps the only thing that rarely changes is the “immortal” costume. Yes, that one that every Triestine has carried since childhood and treasures for life.
If I had to guess people’s ages based on their costume, I would think nobody over ten years old. The goofier the getup, the better. While the most popular choice is animal pajamas, many people do come in other costumes. La mula” (a young girl) is popular among old ladies; they get their hair all laced up and they put on an infant dress that goes all the way down to the toes. More modern options are dinosaurs, george il curioso, or local characters.
If I had to guess people’s ages based on their costume, I would think nobody over ten years old.
Unlike the Venice Carnival, this is less popular with tourists and functions much more as a local tradition. Often, people come just to meet old friends. Other times, they stay to enjoy new ones. The easiest time of year to “adopt” a Triestine friend is surely during Carnival.
How can it not be the greatest time of year when you have a whole week to celebrate life? Masks, costumes, contests, and bars open until the early morning. Even the “funeral” on the last day of Carnival is a reason to celebrate.
The corteo funebre is one of the most ancient traditions, complete with widows, lovers, and children crying for the King of the Carnival. Representing the end of winter and the beginning of Quaresima (Lent), these mock funerals take place across various neighborhoods in Trieste and culminate in a major event in Muggia.
The most important of these small carnivals has always been in Muggia, but its place as the most beloved carnival in the region is being threatened this year. A new five-euro tariff for non-residents caused many locals to change their plans at the last minute. As they say, the party must go on. This time, maybe just in a different location.
Opinions on the fee are mixed. Some argue the charge is good, allowing the town to manage the cleanup after a week of celebration. Others maintain firmly that it is unthinkable to charge for a tradition that belongs to the people.
Where else can you go, if not Muggia? Opicina and Servola. Both are key neighborhoods in Trieste, a little far from the city center but very welcoming.
In Servola, you will find the Triestini patocchi (the “pure-blooded” locals). While the myth of Servola being an exclusive enclave is slowly changing, you can still see how families have known each other for generations. You may feel you are in a tiny town rather than a city neighborhood.
Opicina is the family-friendly alternative, offering a calmer environment reachable by tram or bus, though the limited public transport schedules mean you’ll want a car if you plan to stay past midnight.
Be ready to fight the Bora. It is not a light breeze, but a force strong enough to stop you in your tracks.
First-time visitors should know three things. First, dressing up is not mandatory, but if you catch the spirit late, the shops near the station offer affordable options. Second, the food is the heart of the season: crostoli, fritole, and chifeletti di patate. Third, be ready to fight the Bora. It is not a light breeze, but a force strong enough to stop you in your tracks. When you see confetti swirling in a violent spiral, it’s a sign the Bora has arrived to claim your drink (or whatever you have in your hands). All you can do is guard and hold on tight.
The carri are a delight for children, but the real magic lies in the long nights of singing until your feet hurt. Much of the joy comes from the spontaneous conversations you have while queuing for the bathroom, where the Bora of the fest blows away social barriers. People feel free enough to be like children again.
Babies, dogs, and the elderly are all part of the crowd. While it may not be for everyone, what made it memorable for me was being able to understand the local chatter, losing my sense of embarrassment and allowing my silliest version to emerge.
