Founded in 1953, this is the kind of simple noisy trattoria that one hopes will never change. Near the Central Market they still buy from the same vendor families that served their grandparents. Now run by Mario Colzi’s sons Fabio and Romeo, count on good traditional Tuscan fare and interesting company at the table (they are communal). Vegetable soup is excellent, as is the olive oil — some locals buy their oil here it’s that good. Bistecca alla Fiorentina is their signature dish, plus 10 or so other main courses like duck, tripe, rabbit, or bollito misto (most range €5-12). Fish available only on Friday — try pasta with fresh tuna or shrimp, or grilled tuna with rosemary. Lunch only 12 p.m.-3:30. No reservations — prepare to wait (so democratic even Fabio’s wife has to get in line). House red wine, Chianti, is above average.
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