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April 2, 2020 | Rome, Italy
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Taverna del li Caldora

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Piazza Umberto I, 13
Pacentro, IT-AQ 67030 Italy

Caldora’s main dining room is ringed with a gallery of late 19th- and early 20th-century photographs of writer Gabriele D’Annunzio’s numerous lovers, a decidedly confident and flamboyant group of women. The enclosed terrace has stone walls, a view of the mountains, and nature flows through it — an inside fountain gurgles continually with spring water, delivered in a pitcher to the table. Food is excellent, beginning with mountain specialties of fresh ricotta, aged pecorino cheese and cured meats. Seconds include local fresh vegetables, wild greens, and meat specialties, with an emphasis on lamb (costatine di agnello, fegato di agnello arrotolato, agnello ‘cac e ov’ — with grapes and pecorino). They have a good selection of wines and the staff serves with flair. The town of Pacentro is near Sulmona.

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