Rome, IT-RM 161 Italy 06.4420.2701 http://www.sudristorantebar.com
Interesting what New York Magazine had to say about these folks: “After a few days of cacio this and pepe that, you may well crave some non-Roman fare.” Interesting approach. But honestly this isn’t so much “non-Rome” as a nouvelle, southern twist on the old. The tagliolini come with shrimp, cherry tomatoes and a pinch of lemon; the orecchiette are garnished with Sicilian broccoli, peperonicino and grana, small chunks of parmesan. The beef steak (filetto di manzo) has an almond tangent and with a paté of dried tomatoes. Swordfish involtini are served with pinoli, cous-cous, grapes and tomatoes. All and all, less a Rome exodus than an elegant diversion. The location is nice, in the Trieste neighborhood near Mussolini’s famous Villa Torlonia, a verdant area of the city too often overlooks. The décor is smooth, the owners from the south (Catanzaro via the States for one), and they take their food seriously. The downside is a kind of forced upscale, which means a fair amount of cash based on presentation more than drop-dead-great quality. If you’re a chance-taker with euro to spare, by all means drop in.
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