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September 16, 2019 | Rome, Italy
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Ristorante Le Noci

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Via Torino, 6
Gualdo Cattaneo, IT-PG 6035 Italy

With a town name like “Grutti” one half expects wild boar to be rooting around and sure enough it’s on the menu here, superb in Danielle’s sauce of olives and fresh bay leaves. Grilled lamb is excellent, too. For primo, the strozzapretti (“strangle the priest”) pasta was divine with wild asparagus more slender, intense, flexible and pleasantly bitter than its cultivated cousin — the same length and thickness as the pasta so you could twirl them together and perfectly balance the mild and strong tastes. Wild chicory was excellent, just picked and lightly sautéed dressed with quality olive oil. Montefalco Red is their local house wine, by all means go for it. Don’t miss the almond biscuits spiked with black pepper — a good excuse for a dessert wine. Décor is rustically warm as is the service. A tab of € 20 or so for such fab fare makes this worth a detour between Massa Martana and Bastardo (yup).

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