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September 26, 2018 | Rome, Italy
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Ristorante Duchessa Isabella

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Via Palestro, 70
Ferrara, IT-FE 44100 Italy
0532.202121/202122 http://www.duchessaisabella.it/

Dine in this 16th-century mansion, surrounded by painted wooden ceilings, taffeta, velvet, and frescoes. Movers-and-shakers hold court in the main dining room and Evelina presides. Lovely intimate side rooms, too, in tones like sage and dusty pinks. Cialda di Parmigiano, a delicate basket of melted Parmesan cheese, held lightly fried vegetables mixed with fresh greens. Cappellacci were pasta pillows plump with pureed pumpkin or wild herbs. Lamb cutlets grilled with crisp vegetables were excellent. Faraona (guinea fowl) and pollo alla diavolo were also good.

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