Osteria di Vico Palla
This il Molo semi-dive got a cheerful rave from The New York Times in 2006, but thankfully hasn’t changed character. The kitchen’s in view and the food straight-up Genoa/Liguria: mandilli (pasta triangles) with pesto; pansotti (herb-and-cheese stuffed ravioli in nut sauce); trofie (pasta corkscrews) with ink and octopus, or with fish and olives; salt cod fritters. Ownership recommends stockfish, pointing out that Flemish painter Van Dyck stopped here to eat just that in the 1620s. He left his BlackBerry in Holland.
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