Osteria degli Artisti
Rome, IT-RM 185 Italy 06.701.8148
American author Gary Shteyngart raves: “The appetizers alone are enough to jolt me out of my antiseptic North American life and into a world of fresh escarole mixed with golden raisins, pine nuts, and capers, all soaked in a deep-yellow pool of olive oil….” Such revery collide with what’s essentially down-to-earth and workmanlike Esquilino trattoria with a Neapolitan flavor. Heavier dishes win out over subtltey: polpette al sugo, big and tasty veal meatballs; alici ripiene al formaggio, cheese-basted anchovies. Satisfying but not outstanding. No doubt a great tonic for antiseptic North Americans.
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