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December 19, 2018 | Rome, Italy
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Osteria de Memmo “I Santori”

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Via dei Soldati 22
Rome, IT-RM 186 Italy
06.6813.5277 http://www.osteriadememmo.it

Located on a quaint side street a few blocks from Piazza Navona and an inch from the Tiber, pretty hole-in-the-wall Memmo is a workmanlike Rome trattoria that puts a premium on an array of antipasti. Memmo serves up a dozen hot and cold delights, including arancini (rice balls), zucchini, fritatta, polpette (veal meatballs) and artichokes. You can chose between the meat and seafood version or mix and match at will.

The rest is somewhat more plebian, including the usual Roman pastas (ravioli, amatriciana, cacio e pepe, spaghetti alle vongole) and main courses focused on steak, lamb, and veal cutlets. Fish dishes are hit and miss, a standard shortcoming among mid-range trattorias; it depends on the day and the cook’s attention span. With a liter of house red or white and desert, a meal should run you about €40 a head.

Beloved by its fans, Memmo is good for an entirely competent Rome meal but nothing special — aside from a charming location.

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