Fabio Baldassarre’s Michelin-starred brainchild limits pretense within limits keeps costs down. This is in every sense high-class dining. The Rome-born Baldassarre (he won’t turn 40 until 2011) changes his menu quarterly, so check the website for current offerings. One meal: watermelon and taleggio cheese salald; rabbit and endive tortelli with anchovy butter; red mullet with pickles and mustard seeds; sfogliatelle with cream, morellos and lemon sorbet. The esoterica is mouthwatering. The spring 2008 menu included roasted lobster with basil, sprouts, white and red tomato (€45) and pigeon cooked in oak wood cinder with must sauce (€ 38). You get the idea. Wine list is infinite, from the “inexpensive” (€30) to the stratospheric.
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