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April 2, 2020 | Rome, Italy
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La Milanese

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Via Santa Marta, 11
Milan, IT-MI 20123 Italy

If you like your veal old-style, with bone, come here. In most of Italy, the costoletta alla Milanese is stripped down to a flat, boneless breaded chicken breast-style dish (mostly called a costoletta. Not here. The bone remains. The bone’s taste does as well. Also excellent is the ossobuco (shanks), which is invariably tender. This restaurant gets mixed reviews in some publications, but there’s no denying its authenticity. Giuseppe and Antonella Villa run a tight ship — glamour is not their trade — with an loyal, old-Milan clientele. Risotto al Barolo is wine-pungent perfect; risotto alla Milanese (saffron and beef marrow) is also top-of-the-charts.

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