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September 15, 2019 | Rome, Italy
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La Cantineta

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Via Gramsci, 1/C
Ancona, IT-AN 60121 Italy

The bar-trattoria is a short walk from Ancona’s port, Piazza della Repubblica, and Teatro le Muse, this is a monument to what a fish trattoria should be: simple, friendly, efficient and a little noisy with excellent fish that pleased even a finicky Florentine curator and Venetian bon vivants. Zesty pasta with sardines or allo scoglio were made with homemade tagliolini and served piping hot, as were the exquisite sardinini (fried sardines). Stoccafisso all’anconetana is Raffaele’s signature dish: cod — cured more gently and with less salt than its Roman cousin — roasted with tomatoes and potatoes is good solid comfort food. Puntarelli, raw bitter-fresh curly pale greens that rarely make an appearance outside Rome, are regulars on the menu. Closed Monday night.

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