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September 15, 2019 | Rome, Italy
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La Cantina del Palazzo Vineria

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Via Benedetto da Cingoli (I Ponti), 30
Cingoli, IT-MC 62011 Italy

Upstairs the “family” pope, Pius VIII, was born, ate and slept. Now his descendants run a fine restaurant with excellent food and professional service. Smooth saffron pumpkin soup takes off a chill in the breezy town nicknamed “Le Marche’s balcony.” Good gnocchi with funghi porcini and truffles. Veal roast en croute has a continental flair. “We’d have done better if our pope had hung in there in longer than a year and a half,” notes the vivacious countess. Nevertheless, they still have the palace above and their domain extends to spinning pizzas at prices even the locals can afford in the adjacent more informal vineria. Open Fri., Sat. from 6 p.m.; Sunday from 12 p.m.; Tues.-Thurs. by reservation only.

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