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April 2, 2020 | Rome, Italy
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Il Gattò

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Via Castel Morrone, 10
Milan, IT-MI 20129 Italy

Walk through the travel agency and past the clothes and accessories it also sells and back to the dining room and garden and you could be in Provence. At least the cream colored ceramic plates and wrought iron tables could make you think that. As for the food, it is “updated” Neopolitan and standard Italian without being fussy; orecchiette with ragu, a veal roast with curry, vitello tonné made without mayonnaise and international desserts such as tarte tatin and a chocolate mouse cake (with real, vanilla ice cream, not Italian crema).

The crowd is stylish but not fashionable, youthful but not young and more international than this residential neighborhood would suggest. The menu is too cute by half, but what is on it — and it changes often — is satisfying without being too solid. The open kitchen is lively and the unprofessional waiters endearing. Appetizers from €8 to €11 and secondi between €12 and €22. A good place to choose when you want something a bit special but not fancy and good simple but not a trattoria (either the real or reconstituted variety).

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