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December 16, 2018 | Rome, Italy
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Gusto

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Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 9
Rome, IT-RM 186 Italy
06.322.6273 http://www.gusto.it

A genetic cross between a Manhattan warehouse-turned-chic restaurant and an wannabe dive. All that’s missing is a well-dressed cockroach. Centrally located under Ara Pacis, ‘Gusto bustlingly caters to all occasions, fancy dinners or informal aperitivi, groups and doe-eyes lovers, tourists and grizzled office workers. It offers a range of pastas and pizza (downstairs) in what amounts to patchwork fusion. Upstairs is the restaurant. There’s also an enoteca, osteria, and formaggeria, though you could argue it’s all one. Up and down and all around, the quality hems and haws, never establishing a uniform standard. Pizza is good if on the costly side — pizza and wine will still run you €30. But neither occasional mediocrity nor the wear-and-tear of the place dissuade customers, who populate ‘Gusto — the abbreviation means “taste” and “style” at once — like an urban metropolis, particularly at lunch. There is a store selling stylish kitchen items next door.

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