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September 16, 2019 | Rome, Italy
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Da Maria

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Via Testadoro, 14r
Genoa, IT-GE 16123 Italy

The namesake of this hole in the wall (literally and figuratively) near the Carlo Felice has been working at the burners since the 1940s. She’s Maria Mante. It’s a no-frills eatery where tables and conversations are shared with complete strangers. Both the risotto and gelato are called buonissimo, and they are. The menu — traditional Genoese, pesto & co. — never changes much, but why fiddle with a good thing? Anya von Bremsen got it right when she called the food and the presentation here no-frills but “completely essential.” Closed for dinner two days a week.

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