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December 19, 2018 | Rome, Italy
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Da Maria

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Via Testadoro, 14r
Genoa, IT-GE 16123 Italy
010.581.080

The namesake of this hole in the wall (literally and figuratively) near the Carlo Felice has been working at the burners since the 1940s. She’s Maria Mante. It’s a no-frills eatery where tables and conversations are shared with complete strangers. Both the risotto and gelato are called buonissimo, and they are. The menu — traditional Genoese, pesto & co. — never changes much, but why fiddle with a good thing? Anya von Bremsen got it right when she called the food and the presentation here no-frills but “completely essential.” Closed for dinner two days a week.

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