Rome, IT-RM 153 Italy 06.574.6800
A Testaccio institution, this reputable trattoria reopened its doors after a 2005 makeover. Now, it’s trendy and anonymous in the mold of many eateries in the global village. That’s sad, yes. But it’s impossible to get a table here (you must know a Roman with connections), a sign that it’s still serving up the Real McCoy: Try cacio e pepe or carbonara, followed by involtini or saltimbocca — all exemplary of simple Roman goodness. Vast wine list, tempting desserts. Leave the diet at home.
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