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April 7, 2020 | Rome, Italy
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Da Adriano

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Via Napoli
Carovilli, IT-IS 86083 Italy

Townsfolk stole the remains of patron saint, Stefano del Lupo, from Abruzzo in 1807. Things have settled down and now it has the area’s best food. Extrovert “Molisano” Adriano presides over the dining room, in the kitchen his lovely wife prepares excellent appetizers including lightly battered fried bread, vegetable variations with eggplant, zucchini, pumpkin, or whatever is in season. Melt-in-your mouth mozzarella comes from the cheese shop down the street. Pasta variations like cheese-filled crepes and fettuccine made with dried porcini mushrooms are her own creations. Grilled lamb chops are succulent. The ricotta cheese pie with fig sauce is dreamy and light. If it’s winter, do ask for truffles — the area is known for them. Adriano has Molise’s full-bodied red wine, Tintilia, made from local grapes and rarely found in wine shops outside the region.

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