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September 15, 2019 | Rome, Italy
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Cafagi Ristorante

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Via Guelfa, 35r
Florence, IT-FI 50129 Italy

Dates to 1922 but decor is vintage 1960s trattoria. Friendly, attentive three-generation family turns out real Tuscan comfort food plus a complete seafood menu (€7-14). Soups are winners, especially the black cabbage with wild herbs and a hint of cloves; or try farro (spelt) with tiny black-eyed peas or lighter vegetable soup. Hearty pappardelle (wide noodles) with wild boar sauce subtly spiced with peppercorns (€ 8). Tender vitello brasato is cooked slowly veal with vegetables, served with a side like artichokes (€10). Fried artichokes and brains (€ 13) or chicken (€11) were greaseless and tasty. Light menu, too, in summer. Andrea’s creme caramel is excellent. They make their own olive oil and wine — the red is light, smooth, very drinkable (1/4-L €2, bottle €6). Chiantis about €9 bottle, plus other wines. Excellent value — informal atmosphere but no culinary detail is overlooked. €3 cover.

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