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December 16, 2018 | Rome, Italy
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Via Ulisse Aldrovandi, 15
Rome, IT-RM 197 Italy
06.322.3993

Alfonso Iaccarino’s restaurant insider the super-posh Aldrovandi Palace Hotel in Parioli is stylish and costly (the top suites can run more than €3,000 a night). Iaccarino’s background (he masterminded Michelin-starred Don Alfonso) is the Amalfitano south and the menu shows it. Pomodorini abound, red and ripe. The risotto ai frutti di mare feels straight-from-the Amalfi coast. In the middle there’s rabbit and other game, borrowed surreptitiously from Tuscany. The high manners (cloches over the pasta; no-price menus for women guests) comes at a high price — €120/140 a head and up (what do you expect for raved-about stockfish and red pepper cannoli). Lots of Russian spoken in the lobby, which says a lot about the life and times of Rome circa 2008.

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