Chef Bruno Ghione is masterful picker of Champagnes as well as a fine cook. A plump sweet-sour onion dumpling and light, crusty home baked breads kept us occupied until the delicious chestnut soup (€9.50) arrived. Beautiful autumnal risotto violet with Lagrein wine rested atop bright orange pumpkin puree (€14), tasty as it was beautiful. Lagrein wine, with its flavors of wild berries, currants, and cherries was the ideal wine to wash that down. Even better was the 2004 Lagrein Barbagol Riserva, with tobacco notes that made a good match for perfectly grilled veal filet topped with balsamic sauce, with mashed celery and cooked apple slices on the side (€24).
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