Originally a 17th century “cafeteria” for Papal State customs officials who worked down the street. Since contadini had to come to deliver grain to church HQ, the Vatican, they too had munching time on their hands. Later, it became a Trastevere inn based around a bocce alley. The owners now explain that the food of the period was based on subsistence eating (taking and re-inventing upper class left-overs). Fair enough, but times change. Colin Ferrell, Sean Penn, and La Loren, while no doubt famished, are not contadini. Be that as it may, the Rome food gang’s all here: mezze maniche all’amatriciana, cacio e pepe, carbonara, gricia plus stinco, salsiccia, rombo and baccala. The cantina is vast enough to have spawned an enoteca (called DILA, from Di Là) on the side. The scene is elegant (lovely fireplace in winter), so please leave the Red Sox t-shirt at the hotel. Usually closed for two weeks in early January and late April. Near Piazza Trilussa. Book ahead.
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