Rome, IT-RM 191 Italy 06.333.7192 http://www.acquolinahostaria.com/
The Troiani Brothers, who created Convivio Troiani, opened this discreetly elegant Corso Francia place in June 2006, apparently to vent their fish-cum-sushi lust. And to produce fresh fish that was in fact fresh (not always standard in Rome). For starters, consider the alici fritte in crosta di pistacchio (fried anchovies in pistachio crust). The vermicelli alla carbonara di mare and gnocchetti di Fiuggi con cozze e pecorino are just what they sound like: Italian (and Roman) meat and tomato pasta dishes transformed into fisherman’s friend delights. There’s Fritto Acquolina, which deliciously produces olives, baccalà (sald cod), gamberi (shrimp), triglie (mullet), merluzzetto (gilded cod).
On the simpler side, dishes such as tagliolini with scampi and cherry tomatoes make their mark without filling. (On the non-fish side, the olive ascolane are delicious, by the way; so are the cheeses.) Fiuggi-born chef Giulio Terrinoni, not yet 35, has no tuna or anything else that keeps — the idea, bene o male, is from sea-to-table. This in turn keeps the menu contained, which is pleasantly helpful when it comes to making up your mind. Dinner will run you €70-90 with wine (a fine list), but if it’s fresh fish you want, book ahead here. Menu changes depending on fish availability.
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