February 8, 2023 | Rome, Italy
Detail from a painting by David Teniers the Younger.

Telling them apart

Ristorante, trattoria, osteria and pizzeria have always been Italian dining's big four, but making old school distinctions between them is becoming increasingly difficult.

The marriage ended in separation.

To Titta

Memories of a loving grandmother can sometimes be so vivid that time stands still.

Past-midnight has become the city's happy hour.

Roaring Rome

Out of nowhere, speakeasies have arrived and planted secret roots in Rome's nighttime scene.

Nicknamed, "the blond."

Obscure gulps

Italian media will sell you Coke, Pepsi and their U.S. brethren, but seek local roots elsewhere.

Prosciutto and melon (or figs) tops the appetizer list.

Course reset

Italians no longer eat the kinds of massive meals guidebooks suggest. Now, mixing and matching rule.