
Picking and choosing
Shopping in Rome's outdoor markets can mean relearning some basic food rules.

Ice, baby, ice
Italians and Americans couldn't be more at odds when it comes to cold cube values.

Cruel nourishment
Food writing has turned nasty, which couldn't be more at odds with the joy of cooking.

Here and there
Understanding Italian cuisine also means knowing how it was changed in the United States.

Marketplace rules
Putting your local market ahead of supermarkets means "relearning" how to shop.

Dining with Columbus
Italian food couldn't exist without its New World components, and vice versa.

From insides out
Long associated with offal and innards, Rome's Testaccio now offers considerably more.

Testaccio minus innards
The once-tawdry Rome neighborhood, known for working class food heavy on entrails, has expanded its reach.

Learning the ropes
Eating well in Italy isn't just about food but also knowing differences in dining customs.

Sorrento confidential
The Amalfi Coast remains a dream destination, but pristine marvels are harder to find.

The rules
For tourists, dining well in Rome hinges on knowing what you're getting into and adjusting expectations.