Days of aqua pazza
What season of the witch has befallen almost-summer Rome? None that I have ever before encountered. Day after day, now [...]
Business as usual
Some forty-one years ago, Christopher Winner had the opportunity to run a sensational story about a bomb that went off in his office building, but he did not.
Once upon a footpath
Just over a decade ago, when the planet was more obsessed with terrorism than war, pestilence, or inflation, a short [...]
A “gentleman” undone
I am by nature impulsive. Some forty years ago that lifelong impulsiveness, complicit turmoil within the give-and-take of gender codes, [...]
February sun
Finally, a resplendently sunny midwinter day in Rome — after weeks in which the sun seemed to have gone on [...]
A day in the life
January 15, early morning: Queer, sullen days in the city of sun, whole rows of them, their darkness casting a [...]
Suicide blonde
The woman I love — one part Ryszard Kapuściński, another part Michael Herr, a third a dirty blonde Brenda Starr [...]
Italian pocket change
The latest Italian government — and in Italy, “latest” seems apt, since government can be as fluid as gender — [...]
Words from the darkness
It has been ten days since my seventeenth eye operation, this latest slice-and-dice coming only six months short of my [...]
When the U.S. played God
Beware the old days. Old they are – always. But good is another story. Take the year of my birth, [...]
The Day of the Puma
Some forty May moons ago, when balding Socialist Prime Minister Bettino Craxi held monied sway over suddenly booming Italy and [...]