On the prowl
A history of travel matters most when you decide to pay close attention.
Party animals
A 50th birthday calls for a special day (and celebration) in the Monte Grigna hills.
Archangels and devils
Lombardy's Corni di Canzo — three Lombardy peaks — are steeped in rocky legend.
Forgotten artillery
Hiking to Monte Tramezzo opens a portal into the Linea Cadorna and World War I.
Fond farewell
Saying good-bye to Naples will mean putting aside non-transferable new habits.
Rocks of ages
In Val Camonica, ancient engravers known as the Camuni still have their way.
Eccentric Orvieto
Never mind the car park, there's a medieval city ready for your inspection.
Air and lace
The tiny Venetian island of Burano, population 4,000, seems to exist outside time.
Dead men walking
in the ongoing battle between the Camorra and the state, innocents don't exist.
Paths
A walk over a husband's ancestral ground in north Italy elicits wartime memories.
Tocca ferro
Under new Mayor Luigi de Magistris, Naples is beginning to show promise.