December 4, 2023 | Rome, Italy
Castle Combe is a small Cotswold village in Wiltshire, England.

Last call

With few exceptions, Italian towns are shrinking and dying, with no Cotswald-style tourism to save them.

The 2004 Summer Olympics were to have crowned Athens' new era.

The fall

Visiting Athens comes with the sight of weeds, with a side course of hopelessness.